The
"Modular" design will allow you to construct any size solar tracker,
single or dual axis, and adapt it to any type of device. Photovoltaic PV
solar panels, Solar Concentrators, Solar Heaters Solar Cookers and even
mobile and marine trackers are possible with our modular design. The
new circuit designed by Mike Mladejovsky, PhD uses an inexpensive
comparator integrated circuit and Darlington pair transistor outputs to
drive up to a 1 amp DC motor. While this circuit can drive large motors
it is also possible to build mini-trackers with input voltages as low as
3.6volts. The sun sensor is simplified using only six LEDs and the
drive units are slew type designs driven by planetary geared drill
motors which provide lots of torque and are self locking.
As
always you can build our trackers from recycled parts and cheap readily
available materials but we will also be making pre-made components
available as well as inexpensive kits. The circuit kit and fully
assembled circuit boards will be available starting early in June 2010.
The
new drive units use a motor and gear set from a battery powered screw
driver or battery powered drill providing lots of torque. A worm gear is
adapted to the chuck or drive shaft and it turns a spur gear much like
how a slew gear works. For the first build I am using a Skill Twist
battery powered screwdriver and the drive unit designed to handle a
2watt solar PV panel. For the second build I will construct a heavier
drive unit using an 18 volt power drill motor
I
do not have all the pictures available from the first build so if you
have any questions just post them on our comment section or send me an
email and I will provide you with more details. The first step is to
dismantle your screwdriver, remove the batteries and cut off the handle.
Drill a small hole near the end of the motor and feed the motor wires
into the housing and solder them to the motor contacts as shown. Drill
two pilot holes in the end of the plastic screw driver plastic housing
which will be used to attach the screw driver to the gearbox housing in
the next step.
The
next step is to make the worm gear and attach it to the drive. Cut a
piece of threaded rod 10cm in length and file down one end to fit
tightly into the skill driver chuck and file the other end to fit
tightly into the center of a bearing. I used a recycled roller-skate
wheel bearing for this drive. Next cut one bottom (96mm x 96mm) and two
side pieces (37mm x 96mm) out of ABS flat stock to make the gear box
housing. In one of the side pieces layout and drill a center hole (17mm)
and two mounting screw pilot holes to match the screw driver chuck and
the two pilot holes drilled in the previous step. Assemble the gearbox
housing with the side braces as shown in the picture below, with the
worm gear firmly inserted into the screwdriver chuck mount, thread on a
nut and press the bearing onto the worm gear then secure the screw
driver on to the housing using two screws. The end of the worm gear with
the bearing should just touch the side panel inside surface. Drill a
hole in a piece of ABS flat stock equal to the outside diameter of the
bearing, trim it square to fit the height of the side panel and then cut
it in half and cement it to the inside of the side panel to hold the
worm gear bearing in place making sure the entire worm gear assembly is
aligned with the screwdriver. Place a small amount of epoxy around the
end of the screwdriver chuck then thread the bolt to make contact and
epoxy the bolt onto the worm gear as shown below.
Cut
a piece of threaded rod for the spur gear approximately 10cm long. File
down one end (8 to 10mm) to match the inside diameter of the spur gear,
press the spur gear onto the shaft and epoxy. Note that this need to be
a very tight fit to prevent the spur gear from slipping on the shaft.
We must raise the spur gear to match the height of the worm gear so we
will make a small platform by laminating several small squares of flat
ABS together. Once the height is matched add another square piece with a
hole drilled to match the diameter of the bottom of the shaft. This
will act as a shaft guide and bearing surface so make sure it is loose
enough to rotate freely but tight enough so there is no sideways
movement. Cement the platform into place making sure the spur gear
meshes with the worm gear while the spur gear shaft is perfectly
vertical. Be careful not to make the spur gear / worm gear contact to
tight or it will bind.
Next
step is to make a bearing surface on the spur gear shaft that will hold
the shaft where it penetrates the top of the drive housing. Measure
about 6mm above the top surface of the top of the housing by placing a
flat piece of ABS across the top of the housing sides and next to the
shaft measure up 6mm then lock two nuts together with the bottom of the
two at the 6mm mark this will serve as a guide for filing the shaft. Use
the edge of a large flat file and file down a 6mm section just below
the nuts to end up with the shaft as in the bottom right picture. You
can make the diameter equal to a 1/4 drill which you will use later to
make the split bearing.
Take
a piece of flat ABS stock to make the top of the drive housing and
estimate where the hole needs to be drilled for the spur gear shaft
allowing for overhang on all four sides of the drive housing which will
be trimmed off later. Drill a hole slightly larger than the 3/8 shaft
diameter that will fit over the spur gear shaft. Making sure the spur
gear shaft is perfectly vertical; tack cement to the top of the drive
housing to ensure it is properly in place. Now mark the under side of
the housing top on all four sides, remove it and trim it. Make sure to
mark which side is up and after trimming it place it back in the same
position and securely cement it into place.
The
split bearing holds the spur gear shaft in place while allowing it to
rotate freely. Note that you can place two of these on top of each other
for added strength (you will need to file down more length on the shaft
to accommodate the second split bearing). To make the slit bearing
first drill a 1/4" hole in a flat piece of ABS plastic then trim around
the hole to make a 25mm square. Next simply cut the square in half
through the center of the hole. Making sure the shaft is perfectly
vertical cement the split bearing into place as shown. Let the cement
dry and then check the rotation of the shaft by driving the motor in
both directions. The shaft should rotate perfectly on its axis and have
no noticeable wobble.
This step you
will add reinforced mounting holes to the gear box on the end opposite
of the worm gear assembly. Follow the pictures below and cut out small
rectangles to make reinforced bolt hole mounts. You have to make sure
there will be enough clearance to insert a mounting bolt. For each side
first cut a top and bottom piece cement then add a vertical piece let
the cement dry a little then add a inside vertical piece and a outside
vertical piece. Let the cement dry and then drill holes making sure you
drill is as square as possible to the gear housing. If you are off and
can't insert a mounting bolt just enlarge one of the holes slightly for
more clearance.
The
LED arrangement in the LM339 circuit below uses two rows of three LEDs
with each LED connected in parallel, the two rows are connected in
parallel but reversed polarity. The sensor array is made with three west
LEDs and three east LEDs. A 1meg resistor and a 10n ceramic capacitor
(103z) are also in parallel with the sensor. The sensor LEDs provide
input voltage for two comparators on the LM339 chip with the variable
resistor R2 providing a "dead zone" or sensitivity adjustment. Each
comparator output is fed into a transistor Darlington pair which in turn
drives the DC motor. The rail voltages are provided by two batteries
connected in series with the center tap providing the ground reference.
We have tested this circuit with 2 single cell lithium-ion batteries
providing +/- 4.2 volts and two 12 volt lead batteries, the LM339 is
rated for input voltages from +/- 2 volts to +/- 18 volts. This
circuit is the result of the design efforts of Mike Mladejovsky, PhD EE
who helped us solve issues with the solar tracker #3 circuits via the
Electronics Tech Online Forum which we highly recommend to anyone
needing help understanding electronic circuits. Many
of the components in the following parts list can be substituted with
equivalent components such as using an AN6912 comparator instead of a
LM339. We use 5mm clear green super bright LEDs with a 40deg viewing
angle but any clear lens LED should work for the sensor. 1/4 or 1/2 watt
resistors are adequate, fuses should be placed on each rail and a DPDT
switch can be used also.
- U1/U2 - LM339 quad comparator
- Q1 - TIP42C Power Transistor
- Q2 - TIP41C Power Transistor
- Q3 - 2N3906 Transistor
- Q4 - 2N3904 Transistor
- R1 - 1meg ohm
- R2 - 1k ohm trim pot
- R3 - 10k ohm
- R4 - 10k ohm
- R5 - 10k ohm
- R6 - 4.7k ohm
- R7 - 2.7k ohm
- C1 - 10n ceramic capacitor
- M - DC motor up to 1amp
- LEDs - 5mm 563nm Hi Green Water Clear
Below is the printed circuit board
artwork for the LM339 circuit. The board is 4.0cm x 4.0cm as measured by
the hash marks. The traces are 1mm which should allow you to etch the
board using the lazer printer method.
On the artwork "B" indicates the battery connections, "M" is the DC
motor connections and the LED connections are at the top left. The red
dots indicate connections to the positive +12volt rail, the green dots
are the -12volt rail connections and the yellow dots are the virtual
ground.Resize this
image to approximately 8cm width and maintain the aspect ratio and you
should get the proper size printout depending on your printer. Check the
width of the bar at the bottom and right after printing it should be
exactly 37mm.
Below
is an updated version of the PCB, we have reversed the orientation of
the power transistor Q1, changed the pad layout for the potentiometer
and enlarged the pads for the all the external connections, the power
transistors and the potentiometer.
Sun Sensor Unit
The
Sun Switch sensor uses green GaP LED's to sense the position of the
sun. When a GaP LED is pointed directly at the sun it will produce
around 1.7 volts across the leads. By simply placing two or three of the
LEDs in series you can provide enough potential to drive TTL logic
inputs on a bridge driver.
The
bridge driver circuit itself is simple and very easy to build. You can
use any bridge driver chip that has TTL (digital input control) and is
suitable for the size of DC motor to be driven. Parts to build a Sun
Switch, motors, bridge drivers and LEDs, can be found in scrap
electronics or computer hardware. This page describes a motor drive
built with a L6202 chip and a sensor built with 5mm GaP LEDs.
Cut
a 2" length of 1.5" ABS pipe which will be used as the sensor housing.
Use the tool shown below to mark 3 lines spaced at 10mm around the
circumference of the pipe. The tool allows you to easily mark lines
perfectly perpendicular to the pipes axis by adjusting the pipe in the
tool then rotating it with a drill while marking it. Also mark a cut
line as shown which will be used to trim the pipe housing before
attaching it to the drive unit. The tool is required because it is
rather difficult to cut pipe at a perfect 90deg angle with a hand saw.
Layout
the position of all the LED holes on the sensor housing as per the
diagram below, there will be eight rows with three LEDs in each. Four
rows of LEDs are connected in parallel and connect to either the east
motor drive circuit or the west motor drive circuit. Center punch and
drill the 24 LED holes in the sensor housing making sure that each hole
is drilled perpendicular to the sensor housing axis and that each set of
three holes are aligned parallel to the sensor housing axis. Each row
is spaced 43 deg. apart and each LED is spaced .375" apart in each row.
The east and west LEDs are separated by 23 deg. Use a proper size drill
bit which will allow each lead to be firmly pressed into place. You can
simply drill some test holes in a scrap piece of ABS to find the proper
drill bit diameter.
Build two LED
sets consisting of 4 rows of 3 LEDs. You can build a simple tool by
cutting in half a short piece of 1.5" pipe and using it as a jig to
solder the LEDs. Lay out and drill an identical set of LED holes on the
tool before you cut it. Place the LEDs making sure of correct polarity
then solder the leads using light strand wire.
Insert
both sets of LEDs in the housing then insulate the leads with tubing or
tape. Make sure you know the positive and negative leads of both sets
of LEDs. Cut and cement a shadow plate between the east and west LED
sets. Chamfer the edge of the plate and mount it parallel to the last
row of the west LEDs.
Trim
off the bottom .5" of the sensor housing. The cut should be as close to
90 degrees to the pipe axis as possible as the sensor must align
properly with the bearing in the drive housing.
The
Sun Switch sensor is basically an array of LEDs arranged on a curved
surface. The sensor array is divided into an east and west array and
separated by a vane which cast a shadow. When LEDs are exposed to direct
sunlight within their focus angle they produce a small current
(micro-amps) and associated voltage which is compatible with TTL
inputs.
Tracking
- the shadow vane and first row of west LEDs are used for tracking. The
shadow alternately covers then exposes the first row of west LEDs. When
the first row is exposed to the sun it outputs a small voltage... which
turns on a DC motor via a TTL circuit which drives the tracker and
sensor in a west direction casting a shadow over the first row of west
LEDs causing the voltage to drop and turning off the DC motor. This
process repeats about every 60 seconds.
Searching
- when resetting in the morning or updating after a cloudy period all
the rows of LEDs are used and the end result is a tracking condition as
above. If the tracker ended the previous day facing west the rising sun
will strike the east most row of LEDs and cause the east DC motor to
turn on which will drive the tracker in a east direction ... the first
row of east LEDs will drive the tracker about 45 degrees then hand off
to the next row of east LEDs which will continue to the next then the
final row of east LEDs which is next to the shadow vane... as the
tracker continues to move east the vane cast a shadow over the last row
of east LEDs causing the east DC motor to stop. The sun then creeps
westward and after a few degrees of arc will expose the first row of
west LEDs and tracking will begin. A interruption in tracking (cloudy
period) will result in the same process as a morning reset but the west
LEDs are involved rather than the east LEDs.
You
can download the .pdf file with all the schematics and pictures that
blogger for some reason won't let me post by going here: http://www.pdf-archive.com/2012/01/10/diy-solar-tracker-system/
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